About The Origin And Choice Of Aloha Shirt

RAYON fabric types

The double feather ----------- The warp (vertical) and weft (horizontal) lines are prepared with the horizontal and vertical textile technique (flat weaving) of RAYON long fiber (thin continuous fiber). The surface is smooth and rich in light, and has the characteristics of soft body feeling.
Double feather is synonymous with extremely delicate and pure white fabric. In Europe and the United States, the pure white silk is called "Habutae" in English. RAYON (pure white RAYON fabric similar to pure white silk) like this double feather type was used more on ALOHA shirts in the 1940s and early 1950s, mainly in ALOHA SHIRT products.
FUJIET ---------- The warp (vertical) is made of RAYON long fiber, and the weft (horizontal) is made of RAYON short fiber (short cut waste fiber ------, a cost-reducing waste utilization method), which is also a vertical and vertical textile (flat weaving) fabric. Because the RAYON fiber itself is very thin, even if a large number of short fibers are used, the fabric surface is not much different from the double feather RAYON fabric of full length fiber, and it is cheaper than the double feather RAYON fabric and can be manufactured at a low cost.
Because the weft is made of short fibers, the fabric itself is thicker than the double feather RAYON fabric. Because the feel is very close to FUJI SILK, so called FUJIET.
FUJIET was used on ALOHA shirts from the 1950s. Duke Kahanamoku's ALOHA SHIRT is made almost entirely of FUJIET.
Wall shrinkage cotton ----------- The warp (vertical) is made of untwisted thread (untwisted textile fiber thread), and the weft (horizontal thread) is made of wall thread (with a main line as the axis and a thicker fiber thread twisted on it), and the same fabric is made of vertical flat warp and weft.
Its surface has a concave-convex feature. Because such a bump is very similar to wallpaper, it is called WALL SILK in English.
Originally, this kind of concave and convex fabric textile technique comes from Japan, the material used in Japan is silk, only Japan has, used in kimono, is a kind of high-grade kimono fabric that deliberately reflects the beauty of concave and convex and feel.
The same textile technique was used in Hawaii in the mid-1930s and the early 1950s after trade between Japan and the United States was re-opened (trade stopped after the war between Japan and the United States), but this concave and concave wall fabric made of RAYON fiber was used on ALOHA shirts with traditional patterns of Japanese kimonos.
Since the surface is similar to the concave and convex sense of wallpaper, only one method can be used for manual hand dyeing, so such manual craftsmen can not ensure that the manual cost continues to increase, coupled with the progress of industrial mass production, such fabrics no longer appear after the 1960s.
RAYON's ALOHA SHIRT also has a weakness. That is, there will be shrinkage affected by the cleaning method, and the shrinkage is more severe. So it is best to spend more money to send to the special laundry for cleaning. If you clean yourself, knead as gently as possible.
There are also "I can't do such a troublesome cleaning, but also lightly kneaded, and sent to the laundry?" Or prefer "What a nice pleat!" Friends, then put directly into the washing machine to wash it is OK, but it is best to put in the laundry net to prevent the fabric from washing.
If there are friends who must want to know how to clean ALOHA SHIRT as the best way, then make a special introduction later.
ALOHA SHIRT fabric queen -- SILK
In the history of ALOHA SHIRT, it was originally made from kimonos brought by Japanese immigrants to Hawaii. Therefore, the most valuable kimono material is the silk of the silk material, the ALOHA SHIRT of silk material is also the most advanced ALOHA SHIRT, but also the most original and the most contemporary. Whether it is kimono or western clothing, silk has always established the status of high-grade materials.
From the civilization of Japan's Meiji Restoration to the industrial revolution, after the pre-war war of the Taisho/Showa era, silk occupies an important position in Japan's export of commercial materials. Sericulture technology and silk technology originally came from China, but also spread to European countries, but through the diligence and hard work of Japanese craftsmen themselves, world-class silk products were created very early, as early as the Qing Dynasty, Japanese silk was sold back to China, very famous. Therefore, Japanese silk was praised by the Westerners, and later reflected in the ALOHA SHIRT deeply cherished.
Silk is made of silk material, so it can only be manually dyed, so the price is high. ALOHA shirts (and other garments) made in silk were custom-made as early as the 1930s and into the 1950s.
Therefore, VINTAGE objects are very rare and extremely expensive, and it is difficult for today's reproduction brands to use such fabrics for production. Occasionally there are brand engravings, its price is not low and the number is very small, so the use of old methods woven silk material ALOHA SHIRT engravings can be called ALOHA SHIRT engravings of the best.
Silk fabric skin feeling is very good, as underwear material as early as ancient China and even European and American aristocracies love, silk is a pure natural material, so people with skin allergies can also use, silk material has a dry light and super breathable sense, the summer sun irradiation can protect the skin at the same time dry and breathable. This can not be replaced by any other material.
The weakness of silk material is the fear of erosion of sweat, so it needs to be washed regularly, is a very delicate and difficult to take care of the material, the cleaning method is also more troublesome, easy to be eaten by insects, and the storage of insect repellent is a must. Like a delicate woman who needs to be taken care of.
So far, there are a large number of ALOHA SHIRT fabrics ---- pure cotton
Cotton is a very good material. The material itself is easy to buy in bulk, with ALOHA shirts made of cotton being the cheapest and most plentiful. Relatively durable and easy to clean at will. In addition, it is far better than RAYON and silk in wicking sweat.
There is almost no weakness, if the weakness, in addition to the same shrinkage and wrinkle, that is, after a long time of use and cleaning after the fading color than other materials, but some people think that this is also a taste.
ALOHA SHIRT of cotton products was first born in the mid-1950s and is now the ALOHA SHIRT fabric, which was mainly born in the United States due to the influence of the ALOHA SHIRT trend. Later, ALOHA SHIRT pioneer regions such as Hawaii began to mass-produce cheap products in order to replace expensive products for the public.
ALOHA shirts can be bought almost anywhere these days, including in Hawaii, but most are made of cotton and are modern. If you want to buy the ALOHA SHIRT pattern from the 1950s, you can only buy the ALOHA SHIRT pattern/finish/and the pattern pattern of the early American Aloha shirt in cotton only when you choose the replica variety.
What kind of ALOHA SHIRT should I buy?
In addition to the fabrics mentioned above, there are ALOHA shirts made of composite materials such as chemical fiber. Since it basically did not appear in the golden age of ALOHA SHIRT in the United States in the past, it is used in a variety of similar flower shirts today (common flower shirts similar to that of middle-aged and elderly women in China), it is not a brief introduction.
So even if you buy a real ALOHA SHIRT, you should first consider two things:
1) I like modern and ubiquitous models (Hawaii sightseeing local products).
2) Love the ALOHA SHIRT pattern and color of the old American golden age.
After deciding 1) or 2) above, consider the difference between fabrics and the subtle background differences represented by each fabric. In fact, there are many subtle differences, especially in the past when the ALOHA SHIRT was more popular in the United States.
------------------ is a traditional Japanese pattern. Such as: carp, Mount Fuji, and so on non-repetitive patterns. They all come from patterns on traditional Japanese kimonos.
Western handle ------------------- Western favorite patterns. Such as: the most representative is the Hawaiian flower pattern, pineapple, coconut tree and so on.
プルオーバー ----------PULL OVER. It's a kind of pull-over.
Next, we will continue to introduce one of the key points of ALOHA SHIRT charm "buttons".
Talking about the "button" also plays an important role in the charm of ALOHA SHIRT. There are also many types of buttons used on ALOHA shirts. Different buttons create a different ALOHA SHIRT feel.
Typical buttons are: bamboo/coconut/shell/metal, etc. In modern times, there are urea/organic glass systems. The same material buttons have different sizes and shapes, and different brands feel different. The important thing is that the buttons are different in different times and regions, and the buttons on ALOHA shirts are different according to the period when Aloha shirts were sold. Expert ALOHA SHIRT discriminators can infer the production period of ALOHA SHIRT based on the buttons.
The following are the main types and features of buttons
Bamboo -------------- The use of bamboo with dense fiber tissue, sanded and long-term use will appear glossy dark brown. The fiber tissue density near the root of bamboo is high. The traditional Japanese pattern ALOHA SHIRT in the 1950s mainly used this bamboo button, because one bamboo can only use the root, the amount of button material collected is not large, and the button polishing process is completely manual, so it was only used on ALOHA SHIRT before 1930 to the middle of 1950.
Coconut --------------- Buttons made from coconut turning are also the most common buttons. The material is easier to carve out a variety of styles and different sizes. Hawaiian ALOHA SHIRT manufacturers from the 1930s to the 1950s used this button mostly on ALOHA shirts with Western-style floral patterns.
Shell -------------- Using white butterfly shell/black butterfly shell turned out of buttons, with a transparent sense and beautiful luster. It was mostly used on traditional Japanese patterned shirts of the early 1930s and ALOHA shirts made of silk after the war. Used in the high-end price belt SHIRT. Even more advanced are buttons that stain shells to give them a unique color sense.
Buttons of metal --------------- Buttons of metal. The surface of the button is usually made of ancient money/warrior's side face/King KAMEHAMEHA (Native Hawaiian king)/heraldry etc. Since the mid-1950s, in order to add some commemorative significance and attach a high-level sense, it has been used on silk (silk) fabrics and ALOHA shirts with some commemorative features.